A few weeks ago we went to Paris for the weekend to see the French open. While it lacks the traditions and atmosphere of Wimbledon, to be able to see tennis of such calibre at any tournament is a privilege. And the perfect excuse to go to Paris! It was nice to visit Paris a second time around and not have to stand in lines and run around the main sights in a frenzy. Like all European cities, Paris definitely fulfills the beautiful and romantic image it portrays to the world, but it also has a very grimy, grungy side to it. This can put people off - who never expected this. And we encountered first hand the crime that is rife throughout the city and its suburbs with a near mugging on the RER. (Be careful on the RER!) Crime aside, grungy inevitably creates interesting.
Away from the tourists in the trendy neighbourhood of the 11th arrondissement of Paris, you'll find Au Passage. My friend Anna had recommended it to me a whole year earlier but we didn't manage to get there on that trip. It is known for its small plates so when I called to make a reservation, I was slightly disappointed when the lady told me that for a table of our size, we would have to have the set menu. I shouldn't have been. What we were served was almost a degustation of delicious morsels with the grand main course a slow roasted leg of lamb. An admission: the chef is Australian. However, the menu is based on good quality French produce and the restaurant is full of Parisiennes, with more queuing outside - so it's French enough for me! The whole experience was fantastic.
You'll see on the menu that the first course was 'ajo blanco' - in fact a Spanish almond soup. For me, this was the most interesting dish of all and I couldn't stop thinking about it. I thought I would try recreating the magic myself last night. Claudia Rodden has a recipe in her book The food of Spain. While looking for the soup recipe, I came across a recipe for veal meatballs, with an almond sauce (keeping with the theme) which I thought would be perfect for the main course.
I think a ladle full of the ajo blanco is the perfect amount as it is so rich. Claudia's recipes serve a few so if there are only two of you, half the recipe.
Ajo blanco
75g white bread
275g blanched almonds
3 garlic cloves (I found this a bit strong so recommend 2)
100ml olive oil
750ml cold water
salt
3 tbsp sherry vinegar
green seedless grapes
Soak the bread in water and squeeze out. Grind the almonds very finely in a food processor then add the bread, garlic and oil. With the processor running, slowly add the water. Season with salt and vinegar.
Transfer into a bowl and refrigerate. Claudia says to refrigerate for at least 2 hours - I would say over night. (Trust me I tried it the next day!). To serve, ladle into bowls and drop in the grapes.
Veal meatballs in almond sauce
100g white bread crusts removed
1 egg
500g minced veal
1/2 onion very finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, crushed
2 tbsp parsley, finely chopped
s + p
flour to roll the meatballs in
sunflower oil
For the sauce:
300ml chicken stock
200ml white wine
pinch of saffron threads
zest of 1 lemon
s + p
2 tsp sugar (I used agave nectar)
20g white bread crusts removed
40g blanched almonds
3 garlic cloves, peeled
3 tbsp olive oil
Soak the bread in water then squeeze dry. In a bowl beat the egg then add the meat, bread, onion, garlic and parsley, as well as salt and pepper. Combine with your hand then shape into balls. Roll the balls in flour.
Cook the balls with oil in a frying pan for a couple of minutes only until lightly browned.
For the sauce, pour the stock and wine into a saucepan and bring to the boil. Add the lemon zest and saffron, then salt, pepper and sugar.
In a pan fry the bread, almonds and whole garlic cloves briefly in the oil. Lift them out, let them cool slightly then grind in a food processor. Stir this mixture into the stock. Add the meatballs, cover and simmer on low for about 20 minutes.
Truly delicious.
Away from the tourists in the trendy neighbourhood of the 11th arrondissement of Paris, you'll find Au Passage. My friend Anna had recommended it to me a whole year earlier but we didn't manage to get there on that trip. It is known for its small plates so when I called to make a reservation, I was slightly disappointed when the lady told me that for a table of our size, we would have to have the set menu. I shouldn't have been. What we were served was almost a degustation of delicious morsels with the grand main course a slow roasted leg of lamb. An admission: the chef is Australian. However, the menu is based on good quality French produce and the restaurant is full of Parisiennes, with more queuing outside - so it's French enough for me! The whole experience was fantastic.
You'll see on the menu that the first course was 'ajo blanco' - in fact a Spanish almond soup. For me, this was the most interesting dish of all and I couldn't stop thinking about it. I thought I would try recreating the magic myself last night. Claudia Rodden has a recipe in her book The food of Spain. While looking for the soup recipe, I came across a recipe for veal meatballs, with an almond sauce (keeping with the theme) which I thought would be perfect for the main course.
I think a ladle full of the ajo blanco is the perfect amount as it is so rich. Claudia's recipes serve a few so if there are only two of you, half the recipe.
Ajo blanco
75g white bread
275g blanched almonds
3 garlic cloves (I found this a bit strong so recommend 2)
100ml olive oil
750ml cold water
salt
3 tbsp sherry vinegar
green seedless grapes
Soak the bread in water and squeeze out. Grind the almonds very finely in a food processor then add the bread, garlic and oil. With the processor running, slowly add the water. Season with salt and vinegar.
Transfer into a bowl and refrigerate. Claudia says to refrigerate for at least 2 hours - I would say over night. (Trust me I tried it the next day!). To serve, ladle into bowls and drop in the grapes.
Veal meatballs in almond sauce
100g white bread crusts removed
1 egg
500g minced veal
1/2 onion very finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, crushed
2 tbsp parsley, finely chopped
s + p
flour to roll the meatballs in
sunflower oil
For the sauce:
300ml chicken stock
200ml white wine
pinch of saffron threads
zest of 1 lemon
s + p
2 tsp sugar (I used agave nectar)
20g white bread crusts removed
40g blanched almonds
3 garlic cloves, peeled
3 tbsp olive oil
Soak the bread in water then squeeze dry. In a bowl beat the egg then add the meat, bread, onion, garlic and parsley, as well as salt and pepper. Combine with your hand then shape into balls. Roll the balls in flour.
Cook the balls with oil in a frying pan for a couple of minutes only until lightly browned.
For the sauce, pour the stock and wine into a saucepan and bring to the boil. Add the lemon zest and saffron, then salt, pepper and sugar.
In a pan fry the bread, almonds and whole garlic cloves briefly in the oil. Lift them out, let them cool slightly then grind in a food processor. Stir this mixture into the stock. Add the meatballs, cover and simmer on low for about 20 minutes.
Truly delicious.
Thanks Kirsty...the Veal meatballs look great...Cheers, Richard
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